What is viscose?
Viscose — also called rayon — is a fiber made from plant material, usually wood pulp. That plant origin leads many people to assume viscose is natural. It is not. The wood pulp is dissolved in chemicals and reconstituted as fiber in a process that produces something that does not occur in nature. Viscose is a semi-synthetic fiber.
How viscose is made
Cellulose is extracted from wood pulp and dissolved in a solution of sodium hydroxide and carbon disulfide. The resulting liquid — the "viscose" solution — is pushed through small holes (spinnerets) to form filaments, which are then hardened in a sulfuric acid bath. The process transforms the plant material at a molecular level. What comes out shares no structural characteristics with the tree it came from.
| Fiber | Origin | Classification | Microplastics |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cotton | Cotton plant seed pod | Natural | None |
| Linen | Flax plant stalk | Natural | None |
| Wool | Sheep fleece | Natural | None |
| Silk | Silkworm cocoon | Natural | None |
| Viscose / Rayon | Wood pulp, chemically processed | Semi-synthetic | None (but not natural) |
| Modal | Beech wood pulp, chemically processed | Semi-synthetic | None (but not natural) |
| Lyocell / Tencel | Wood pulp, closed-loop process | Semi-synthetic | None (cleaner process) |
| Polyester | Petroleum | Synthetic | 100K–6.3M fibers per wash/kg |
| Nylon | Petroleum | Synthetic | Yes |
Is viscose a natural fiber?
No. Viscose is a semi-synthetic fiber. It starts from a natural source — wood pulp — but is converted into fiber through an intensive chemical process that transforms the plant material entirely. The resulting fiber does not occur in nature. Natural fibers such as cotton, wool, linen, and silk require no chemical conversion to become fiber.
Is viscose the same as rayon?
Yes. Viscose and rayon are the same material. Rayon is the term used in the United States; viscose is the term used in Europe. Both describe regenerated cellulose fiber produced through the same chemical process. Bamboo fabric, when processed this way, is also a form of rayon — the FTC requires it to be labeled as "bamboo rayon" rather than simply "bamboo."
Is viscose breathable?
More breathable than polyester, but not comparable to linen or cotton. Viscose absorbs moisture and feels light, which makes it cooler than synthetic fabrics. It loses significant strength when wet, which affects how it holds up to repeated washing.
Is viscose better than polyester?
In some ways. Viscose comes from a renewable plant source rather than petroleum. It does not shed microplastics the way polyester does. However, conventional viscose production uses toxic chemicals and can raise concerns about wood sourcing. It is neither a natural fiber nor as environmentally problematic as polyester — it sits in its own category.
Is viscose bad for the environment?
Conventional viscose production uses carbon disulfide, a toxic chemical that can harm workers and surrounding ecosystems when not properly managed. The wood sourcing also raises deforestation concerns. Lyocell (Tencel) is produced in a closed-loop process that recaptures most solvents — a significantly cleaner version of the same basic approach. If you are choosing between viscose and lyocell, lyocell is the better environmental choice.
Does viscose shrink?
Yes. Viscose shrinks readily in warm or hot water and loses strength when wet. Wash viscose in cold water on a delicate cycle and air dry. Do not wring or twist wet viscose — it is fragile when damp. Many viscose garments are labeled dry clean only for this reason.
Why is viscose not in The Plain Thread directory?
The Plain Thread lists brands that use natural fibers — fibers that occur in nature without chemical conversion. Viscose, rayon, modal, and bamboo fabric require chemical processing that transforms the raw material into something new. They are not natural fibers. Lyocell (Tencel) is the one semi-synthetic we list in limited cases, given its closed-loop production process and cleaner environmental profile — but it is not a natural fiber either.
Every brand in The Plain Thread directory uses natural fibers: cotton, wool, linen, hemp, silk, alpaca, and cashmere. No viscose, no rayon, no polyester.
Browse natural fiber brands