What is linen?
Updated October 25, 2026
Linen is a fabric made from the fibers of the flax plant. It is one of the oldest textiles people have made, and it is still one of the best for warm weather. It starts out crisp, softens with every wash, and lasts for years. Here is how it is made, how it wears, and what to look for on the label.
What is linen made from?
Linen is woven from the fibers inside the stem of the flax plant (Linum usitatissimum). After harvest, the stalks are left in the field to ret, which loosens the fibers from the woody core. The fibers are then separated, combed, spun into yarn and woven or knitted into fabric. Nothing synthetic is involved in making the fiber itself.
Where does linen come from?
Most of the flax grown for linen comes from a coastal strip running from northern France through Belgium and the Netherlands, where the cool, damp climate suits the plant. The fiber is often spun and woven somewhere else, commonly in Lithuania, Portugal, Italy or China. A label that says "European flax" refers to where the plant was grown. It does not say where the cloth was made.
What does linen feel like?
New linen feels crisp and a little dry, with a visible slub in the weave. It softens with every wash. Many brands sell linen that is already washed or stonewashed, which starts out soft and drapey. Heavier linen is used for trousers, jackets and bedding, while lighter linen is used for shirts and summer dresses.
Why is linen good in hot weather?
Linen fibers are long and smooth, and linen cloth is usually woven loosely enough for air to move through it. It absorbs moisture and lets it evaporate quickly, so it feels cool and does not cling when you sweat. That is why linen shirts, sheets and pajamas are popular in summer and with people who run hot at night.
Does linen wrinkle?
Yes. Flax fiber has very little stretch, so it creases where it bends. Most people who wear linen accept the wrinkles as part of the look. Washed linen and linen blended with cotton crease less. Hanging pieces to dry and smoothing them by hand keeps wrinkling down without ironing.
Does linen shrink?
Linen that has not been pre-washed can shrink a few percent the first time it is washed in warm water. Pre-washed and stonewashed linen has already done most of its shrinking. Washing in cool or lukewarm water and air drying keeps the size steady.
What does "100% linen" mean on a label?
It means every fiber in the fabric is flax. Many garments sold as "linen" are blends, such as linen and cotton, linen and viscose, or linen with a little elastane for stretch. Check the composition label or the product page if you want pure linen. Labels that say "linen look" or "linen feel" usually mean there is little or no linen in the fabric.
Is linen sustainable?
Flax grown in Western Europe usually relies on rainfall rather than irrigation and needs fewer pesticides than conventional cotton. The whole plant gets used: long fibers go to fabric and the shorter ones go to paper, insulation and other products. The dyeing and finishing stages still matter, which is where certifications help. European Flax covers flax grown in Europe without GMOs or irrigation, Masters of Linen covers linen made in Europe from field to fabric, OEKO-TEX Standard 100 tests the finished fabric for harmful substances, and GOTS covers organic linen through the whole supply chain.
How do you wash linen?
Machine wash in cool or lukewarm water on a gentle cycle, with a mild detergent and no bleach. Line dry or tumble dry on low and take it out while slightly damp. Linen gets softer the more it is washed, so regular use is good for it.
Why is linen more expensive than cotton?
Flax is grown in a small part of the world, harvested once a year, and takes more steps to turn into fiber than cotton does. Spinning and weaving linen is also slower. Well-made linen lasts a long time, so the price per year of use often compares well with cheaper fabrics.
Brands in the directory that sell linen clothing and bedding.