Linen by the yard
Buying linen by the yard involves more variables than most fabrics. Width, weight, and whether the fabric is pre-washed all affect how much to buy. This page covers the purchasing process specifically — how much linen you need for common projects, what questions to ask before ordering, and what to expect on price.
How much linen to buy for common projects
At standard 55-60 inch fabric width: a simple blouse or shirt requires 2 to 2.5 yards; a dress requires 3 to 4 yards; trousers require 2.5 to 3 yards; a pair of pillowcases requires 1.5 to 2 yards; a tablecloth for a six-person table requires 3 to 4 yards. These are general estimates — check your specific sewing pattern for the exact requirement based on the design and your size. Always add 15% to the pattern yardage if buying raw (unwashed) linen to account for pre-washing shrinkage before you cut.
Width matters
Linen is typically sold in 55 to 60 inch (140-150cm) width for apparel and general use. Most garment sewing patterns are drafted to this width. Some specialty linens — particularly those produced for bedding, curtains, and table linens — are available in 90 or 110 inch widths, which allows large pieces like duvet covers or tablecloths to be cut from a single width without a center seam. Width affects how many yards you need: if a pattern specifies 3 yards at 60 inch width, you may need significantly more if the fabric you found is only 44 inches wide. Always confirm the fabric width before calculating yardage.
Pre-washing raw linen before cutting
Raw linen (fabric that has not been pre-washed in processing) will shrink 5 to 8% on the first wash, primarily in length. Always wash and dry linen fabric before measuring and cutting. Wash it in the same way you plan to care for the finished item — if the garment will be machine washed in cold water, pre-wash the fabric in cold water. If the finished textile will be washed warm, pre-wash warm. This ensures the shrinkage happens before you cut, so the finished piece maintains its dimensions and proportions. Skipping this step is the most common cause of garment fit problems in linen sewing.
What to look for per yard
Weight (gsm — grams per square meter) is the most useful specification for matching linen to its intended use. Lightweight linen (120-160gsm) is suitable for blouses, shirts, and summer clothing. Medium-weight linen (160-230gsm) works for dresses, trousers, and general garments. Heavyweight linen (230gsm and above) is suited for upholstery, bags, and structured home textiles. Confirm fiber content is 100% linen, not a linen-cotton or linen-polyester blend. Check whether the fabric is pre-washed (sometimes labeled "stonewashed" or "washed linen") or raw — this affects how much shrinkage to expect and how stiff the fabric will be when you start working with it.
Price expectations
Entry-level linen at $8 to $15 per yard is adequate for casual projects and practice but often has uneven weave, inconsistent weight, and less satisfying hand feel. Quality mid-range linen at $15 to $30 per yard is the practical range for most garment and home textile projects — consistent weight, good color fastness, and a hand that improves with washing. European heritage linen from Belgian, French, or Lithuanian mills at $30 to $60 or more per yard is the top end: finest fiber, longest lifespan, most consistent quality. The higher cost per yard pays off in longevity — quality linen garments and textiles last years or decades, making the cost-per-use lower than cheaper alternatives replaced every season.
Frequently asked questions
How many yards of linen do I need for a dress?
A simple sleeveless or short-sleeve dress typically requires 3 to 3.5 yards of linen at standard 55-60 inch fabric width. A dress with sleeves, a lined bodice, or a fuller skirt will need 3.5 to 4.5 yards. Always check the yardage requirement on your specific pattern, which will give the most accurate figure for the design and your size. Add 15% to whatever the pattern specifies if you are buying raw (unwashed) linen, to account for pre-wash shrinkage before cutting.
Does linen shrink when washed?
Yes — raw or pre-washed linen that has not been fully processed can shrink 5 to 8% on the first wash, and sometimes more. The shrinkage is primarily in the lengthwise direction. For garment sewing, always wash and dry your linen fabric before measuring and cutting — wash it in the same way you plan to care for the finished garment. If you skip this step and wash the finished garment, seams can pucker and the fit can change significantly. For home textiles like tablecloths and curtains the same rule applies.
What width does linen fabric come in?
Most apparel linen is sold in 55 to 60 inch width (140-150cm). This is the standard for clothing fabric and is what most garment patterns are drafted for. Specialty linens for bedding and home furnishings are sometimes available in 90 or 110 inch widths, which allows a duvet cover or tablecloth to be cut from a single fabric width without a seam. Wide-width linen typically comes from dedicated home textile producers and is less commonly available at general fabric retailers. If your project requires wide-format linen, confirm the width before ordering — the product listing should specify it clearly.
How much does linen cost per yard?
Entry-level linen suitable for casual garments and home projects typically costs $8 to $15 per yard. Mid-range linen — finer weave, better color consistency, more even weight — runs $15 to $30 per yard. Heritage European linens from established Belgian, French, or Irish producers cost $30 to $60 or more per yard. The higher cost of quality linen is generally justified by longer lifespan: a linen garment or textile cut from good fabric, made well, and cared for properly lasts years or decades. The cost-per-use calculation over a linen's lifespan often compares favorably to cheaper fabric that wears out within a season or two.
Where can I buy good quality linen by the yard?
Specialist linen retailers and fabric importers offer the best selection of quality linen by the yard, particularly for European-produced linens from Belgium, France, and Lithuania. Fabric.com, Mood Fabrics, and Merchant & Mills carry a reasonable range of quality linens. For heritage Belgian and French linen, look for importers who specify the mill of origin — Libeco, Safilin, and similar established mills are reliable references. Local fabric stores in major cities sometimes stock quality linen but selection is typically limited. Ordering directly from European linen producers or their authorized distributors is the most reliable route for consistently high-quality fabric.
Looking for finished linen clothing rather than fabric by the yard? Browse linen brands in the directory.
Browse linen clothing brands